Hydrating Thickening
Understanding chemical emulsion and skin physiology
While the global market for skin care and color cosmetics works billion and the number of new products coming onto the market continues to grow exponentially, the cosmetic chemists are always looking interesting and exotic ingredients to improve the appearance of your skin and health. There is a wide variety of compounds is required to provide these products. Each year, hundreds of new ingredients are added to the list of those who have been used for centuries. Some materials used today dates back to 11,000 BC in the drawings of animals Altamira caves.
The appearance of the formulation of skin care dates to about 3000 BC in ancient Egypt. Most mixtures were prepared from natural materials. Cleopatra would have bathed in donkey's milk "to keep your skin soft and supple. A natural material used by the ancients was red ocher or iron oxide. Tumors red mineral formed when iron oxidized or rusted. Red iron oxide has been found in the tombs of ceremony in shades of red lips and preparations. It has also been used to draw the rock paintings of animals, as seen in Altima, and is still used in the form of makeup today. painted eyes also been found in ancient tombs. These paintings consisted mainly of a mineral called malachite green-based copper was mined in nearby quarries. Animal fat was combined with aromatics such as frankincense and myrrh to produce ointments for skin early. creams and lotions have been more sophisticated set by trial and error and transmitted over generations.
Most creams and lotions are emulsions. An emulsion can be simply defined as two immiscible fluids in which a liquid is dispersed into fine droplets in the other. Homogenized milk is a typical example of an oil water (O / W) emulsion. milk fat (fat) dispersed in water into fine droplets by the homogenization process. The reason the fat does not rise to the surface immediately because of the presence of emulsifiers, in this case, a milk protein called sodium casein and several phospholipids. In the case of water in oil (W / O) emulsions, water is dispersed as droplets and suspended in the oil phase. Nondispersed suspension or external liquid phase is also called the continuous phase. Mayonnaise, vinegar and water dispersed in fine droplets in a continuous phase of soybean oil, is an example of a water in oil. egg lecithin stabilized emulsion of mayonnaise.
More emulsifiers can be considered surfactants or surfactants. These materials are able to reduce the surface tension of water. What makes a surface active emulsifier is related to its HLB, or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance. HLB is determined by the size of the hydrophilic (water-loving or polar) is part of a molecule compared to the size of the lipophilic (oilloving or polar) part. The HLB system was created to categorize the relative polarity of the materials. The most polar, soluble in water, the materials are in the top of the twenty-point scale with the materials Non-polar, oil soluble, closer to zero. The HLB of sodium caseinate was assigned a value of about fourteen years, because of its high solubility water. Lecithin, being poorly soluble in water, has an HLB value of about six years. Both have polar groups. The leading group in the milk protein does not contain sodium. lecithin component surfactant is a molecule called phosphotidylcholine or PC. The polar part soluble in water or PC is the phosphate functional group. emulsifiers groups "oriented polar aqueous polar phase. lipophilic nonpolar groups oriented toward the oil phase form micelles. These spherical structures provide stability of the emulsion by hydrogen bonds and weak electrostatic forces.
emulsifiers skin care can be divided into two groups according to the ionic charge. The materials can be separated in care are considered ionic species as does the unnamed ion. ionic emulsifiers can be classified by type of cargo. Negatively charged anion solvated when the sodium stearate or soap. When fatty acids are reacted to form an alkaline soap. The soap formation process is called saponification. The group with the negatively charged stearic acid is the main unit of the emulsion of soap, anionic classification giving. emulsifiers loaded positively called cationic. dissociates unit emulsifier Quarternium24 positively charged ammonium group. amphoteric compounds that express both positive and negative charges.
nonionic emulsifiers are often used in emulsion skin care for their safety and low reactivity. Usually classified according to their chemical similarity. Glycerin, commonly added to cosmetic emulsions for its properties moisturizing, is the backbone of a class called ester emulsifiers. monostearate glycerine glycerine or GMS, is called a monoester because of its ester bond exclusively. The diester is prepared by esterifying two molecules stearic acid per molecule of glycerin. Glyceryl mono-and diesters are very effective emulsifiers because they contain both polar hydroxyl (OH) and polar fatty acids. If the three hydroxyl groups of glycerol are reacted, the resulting triester have little emulsifier. Acid stearic fatty acid C18. The fatty acids in fats and oils are classified according to their length of carbon chain. Since acid stearic is a lot of fats and oils used in major beauty treatments, based on emulsifiers stearate are particularly useful. The fatty acids are key components of many cosmetic emulsifiers for his great ability to mix in a variety of natural and synthetic oils.
polyethylene glycol esters or glycol esters called PEG. Solubility PEG ester is determined by the number of PEG molecules per molecule of acid reacts. PEG-6 Oleate, by example, has six molecules PEG has responded to the molecule of oleic acid. As the number of polar PEG molecules per molecule of acid increases the solubility in water / HLB increases, PEG-8 oleate is more soluble as PEG 6 oleate. cosmetic chemist often combines the use of esters of glycerol and PEG ester HLB values of high and low to determine the polarity required to emulsify fats and oils different. The many types of emulsifiers are too numerous to list, but emulsifiers and detergents McCutcheon is an excellent source for a complete list.
Most emollients used in personal care and beauty products are fats and oils also called lipids. Animal fat or tallow consists mainly of acid stearic and palmitic acids with carbon chain lengths of 18 and 16, respectively. Many major cosmetic companies are moving away from material of animal origin such as tallow renewable plant materials. The coconut oil and palm kernel oil are often used. Some key characteristics necessary for successful dissemination of good emollient properties, low toxicity / irritation of the skin and oxidative stability. Oleic acid, a major component of olive oil has a low resistance to oxidation due to the presence of the double bond. Saturated fats and oils, Considering that no double bonds. unsaturated oils like olive oil have double bonds that can react with oxygen, especially when heated. The process of oxidation can occur outside of the colors and smells of lipids leading to stale and unusable.
petroleum-based emollients such as petrolatum and mineral oils are found in many formulations, because they do not contain double bonds or reactive functional groups. The silicone oils Cyclomethicone, dimethicone are often added to increase slippage and emollient. The oils contain high levels of essential fatty acids, essential fatty acids, are highly valued for its ability to replenish the lipids (oils) that occur naturally in the skin layers. Linoleic acid is an example of education for all. alcohols long chain, also called fatty alcohols are used as emollients and stabilizers of emulsions. The polar hydroxyl groups to guide water phase with their fatty acid chains oriented in the oil phase. Esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids for their excellent reactivity Low emollient and good stability.
Lanolin from sheep wool, often called wool fat. Lanolin has been used for centuries because of its unique composition of complex sterols, fatty alcohols and fatty acids. The cholesterol, a molecule called cyclic sterols, is a component Main. The polar hydroxyl groups of sterols and alcohols allow the grease to absorb and retain water. Skin is composed mainly of water, oils and emollients are used to feed and protect.
The main distinction between moisturizers and emollients is their solubility in water. Healthy skin requires moisture. Moisturizers are generally polar materials which are hygroscopic in nature, but they retain water. An important tool for evaluating the effectiveness of moisturizers is the scope of the height. Measured insensible water loss or TEWL. After a moisturizer is applied to the skin, the humidity level is recorded. After several minutes, the moisture level is reduced due to the natural tendency of skin to release moisture over time. The ingredients that may maintain a high level of moisture in the upper layers of the skin for several hours can reduce the rate at which water is lost. Glycerin is an ingredient used very profitably to help reduce the CIP. Sorbitol, sucrose, glucose and other sugars are also used moisturize the skin. Aloe, which contains a mixture of polysaccharides, carbohydrates and minerals, is an excellent moisturizer. As the skin becomes dry in winter, can be necessary to incorporate the best materials to seal the moisture in the skin.
The waxes are mainly composed of esters long chain which are solid at room temperature environment. Some waxes commonly used in cosmetics are beeswax, candelilla, carnauba wax and polyethylene. The melting points of waxes vary considerably depending on the composition and length of the string. Commonly used in lip balms and sticks, waxes as agents of the structure, giving the stick is rigid enough to stand up for you as well as properties barrier. With the combination of waxes with different properties such as gloss, flexibility and fragility, the cosmetic results optimum can be achieved. They are often combined with compatible oils and waxes to achieve the desired sweetness. The compatibility is generally determined by measuring the turbidity and the degree of separation of two mixed materials above their melting point. The waxes are particularly useful in creams and emulsions thickening mascara and waterproof properties.
Adding enough wax in a thin lotion, cream thick can be formed. Many thickeners are polymers. powdered cellulose, a polymer fine repeat units of D-glucose, swells in hot water creating a gel network. Carbopol, a polyacrylic acid, swells when neutralized. Clay Benton swell when their structure, which resembles a stack of cards, is opened by mechanical cutting. Carrageenan, pectin and locust bean gum, Examples of thickeners Cosmetics are also used in some of our favorite foods, like salad dressings and frozen pie fillings. Materials physiologically Working in the skin or the skin helps protect against insults also called active. The term "cosmeceutical" invented by the famous dermatologist Dr. Albert Kligman, refers to a product that sits between a cosmetic and a drug. Despite a cosmetic product, by definition, legal, not can serve to beautify and protect the surface of the skin, many cosmetic products can be demonstrated to penetrate the dermal layers of the require a change in skin physiology.
Fruit acids are an example of an active ingredient. Also known as alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs, are ability to penetrate the skin, where you can increase the production of collagen, elastin and intracellular substances and improving the appearance skin. Thousands of active cosmetics are used to set the skin in a variety of ways. They are used to clarify, strengthen and firm the skin. They can be used to remove perspiration as in the case of aluminum chlorohydrate. The salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are important ingredients for its anti-acne. Some active ingredients are added to the treatment of skin protecting the skin against the environment. Dimethicone and petrolatum are examples of protection of the skin.
Sunscreens are a class of compounds that protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation. Wavelengths between 290 nm and 400 nm are particularly harmful to the skin. Sunscreens ability to absorb or reflect these lengths harmful wavelengths are valued for their SPF or sun protection factor. For example, a person protected with an SPF-15 is able to stay at Fifteen plus the Sun if they are not protected. octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, titanium dioxide and avobenzone some of timeliness solar important. Can be classified as UVA or UVB based wavelengths absorbed. Benzophenone 4, water-soluble UV filters are commonly used to protect color cosmetics.
The pigments and dyes used in products to give color. Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is a white pigment that is extracted. In combination with natural iron oxides and synthetic mined, ranging in color from red, yellow, black and brown, depending on the degree Oxidation and hydration, a wide color can be produced which will be adapted to almost all skin tones. Face powders are produced by mixing inorganic oxides and expenses. Fillers are inert, generally inexpensive materials such as kaolin, talc, silica, mica, and used to expand and develop color. as pressed powder eyeshadow and blush were prepared by mixing the ingredients additional requirements such as oils and zinc stearate and pressing the mixture into molds.
Shade and lipsticks contain often pearlescent pigments commonly called pearls. Beads sparkle and reflect light to produce a multitude of colors. They are prepared by precipitation a thin layer of color on thin mica platelets. By varying the thickness of the color changes filed the angle of light refracted if the compound, creating different colors. organic pigments used in lipsticks and eye shadow color. When substances organic precipitates on a substrate are called pigments lake. The term referred Lake Laking or precipitate the organic salt on a metal support such as aluminum, calcium or barium. They are called D & C (drugs and cosmetics) and FD & C (food, medicinal and cosmetic colors). Dyes are useful in providing shades of lotions, oils and shampoos.
Most cosmetic products require the addition of a preservative to prevent microbial contamination and rancidity. Parabens and acid ester parabenzoic are by far the most used because its effectiveness against bacteria Gram-positive. Phenoxyethanol is used to protect against strains of Gram-negative bacteria. cosmetic chemist in general has used a mixture of preservatives to protect against different strains of bacteria and yeasts and molds. Antioxidants such as tocopherols (vitamin E) and BHT were also added to prevent oxidation of sensitive ingredients, as well as protect the skin against free radicals.
About the Author
Dr. Badruddin Khan teaches Chemistry in the University of Kashmir, Srinagar, India.
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